Jewellery making techniques

Chasing and repoussé

My specialism is chasing, which I use in most of my work. I stick the silver or gold onto pitch, held in a heavy cast iron bowl, and chase the design onto the metal using fine ‘tracing’ punches. Then I melt the pitch and remove the metal for annealing, to make it more malleable. The metal is then turned over and stuck back onto the pitch.

 



I then work from the back (repoussé) using different shaped punches to produce three dimensional forms. Often the work needs to be removed and annealed several times, as it work hardens. It usually needs working on from both sides to produce the required depth and detailing.

Sometimes I fill a three dimensional form, such as a small bowl, with pitch and chase swirling lines and undulating shapes into the surface of the exterior.

I make many of my own chasing punches specially for individual pieces: this entails forging and shaping the punch from high carbon steel, then hardening and tempering it before it can be used.

 

Saw piercing

This involves using a saw frame with a very fine blade to cut out intricate shapes, such as the tiny ivy leaves that feature in some of my necklaces and earrings.

 

 

 

Hand made chains

Each chain starts off as a length of wire, which I then wind round a rod to produce a coil that looks like a small spring. I use a  piercing saw to cut the links, and then join them together using two pairs of pliers, then solder each link.

I like to join small chased forms into my chains to create intricate necklaces and bracelets  that incorporate movement and sound. Chains take hours of work but it's very satisfying to see them grow. I recently made a red gold chain for a necklace that took seven metres of wire!

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